Author: Heidi in Spain

Take a  Magical Day Trip from Almuñécar to Soportújar and Las Alpujarras. From the sun-kissed beaches of the Costa Tropical to the cool, forested slopes of the Sierra Nevada, a day trip inland offers a wonderfully different pace. Start from your base in Almuñécar and drive north into the heart of the Alpujarras region, where whitewashed villages cling to hillsides, chestnut trees line lanes, and one village stands out for its imaginative, mystical charm: Soportújar. Combine your visit there with stops in the classic Alpujarran villages of Pampaneira, Órgiva, and Lanjarón, and you’ve got a full, memorable day.

Soportújar: The Village of Witches

Once you arrive in Soportújar, parking can be limited—especially in the peak season or if the village is busy—so aim for an early start or consider parking at the edge and walking in.

A Unique Theme with Local Roots

Soportújar may look like one of many whitewashed Alpujarran villages, but its identity is anything but ordinary. The village goes by the nickname “el pueblo de las brujas” (the witches’ village). The municipality, around 2006 – 2007, embraced the witch-theme in a bid to boost tourism and preserve the village as the population declined.
>What you’ll find today is an imaginative overlay of sculptures, murals, fountains, and themed routes — but it’s underpinned by real local folklore and the layered history of the region.

What to Look Out For (and Photograph!)

Here are some of the standout stops — perfect for your photo collection and blog narrative:

• The mini replica of the village, as you enter from the main road A 4132.
• The Giant Spider (“Araña Tejedora de Sueños”): Located at the convergence of Calle Camas and Calle Moralillo, this large spider sculpture is part of the “dream-weaver” motif in the village. Locals say that if you make a wish beneath it and walk away with hope, your dream may weave itself.
• Hansel & Gretel Candy House (Casa de Caramelos / Chocolate House): Up at the top of the village, above the Baba Yaga house and fountain, there’s a house façade decorated with sweets, cookies, and chocolates — a playful nod to the fairy tale.
• Baba Yaga’s House on Chicken-Legs: Inspired by Slavic folk-tale, this house perched on giant chicken legs is one of the unusual photo opportunities in Soportújar — located near the fountain of the Chorro and the serpent motif.
• Serpent Tunnel / Enchanted Serpent in a Tinao: One of the old “tinaos” (traditional covered passages) features a giant serpent emerging from a wall, lending a surreal twist to the village lanes.
• Fountain of the Witches (Fuente de las Brujas) & Mirador del Embrujo: In the village’s central square, there’s a sculptural fountain with two witches around a cauldron — a popular landmark and viewpoint over the valley.
• Mirador del Aquelarre (Viewpoint of the Coven): A viewpoint on the outskirts, believed (by local legend) to be the site of old witch covens, offering sweeping views of the valley and onto the Mediterranean on clear days. Sculptures of an owl, cat, skull, and broomstick mark the spot.
• The Narrowest Street – Calle Zanjilla: A fun little side street – reputedly the narrowest street in Spain, located in Soportújar, which adds to the character of the village.

Past & Present: A Bit of History

Historically, Soportújar was one of the many villages in the Alpujarras that saw Moorish settlement until the Reconquest, followed by repopulation from elsewhere. Some of the legends of witchcraft stem from cultural fusion — settlers from Galicia or the north who arrived bringing older pagan traditions and practices, and the local mountain communities who developed strong oral folklore. ([iheritage.eu][2])
By the early 21st century, the village faced the issues of depopulation common to many mountain communities in Andalusia. The decision to lean into the “witch village” brand was not purely whimsical — it was a conscious development strategy, and it has succeeded: the local economy and infrastructure have been enhanced, and it is now one of the most searched-for villages in the Alpujarras. ([South of Granada][8])

Practical Tips for Soportújar

• Arrive mid to early morning if you want to avoid crowds and get the best light for photos.
• Wear comfortable shoes — many lanes are steep and narrow.
• Take time to wander off the main squares into the smaller lanes — the more subtle installations and murals often reward the curious walker.
• Parking can get tricky: park at the edge of the village and walk in if the main lot is full.
•  If you’d like a guided experience, local tours are available (e.g., via “Descubriendo Soportújar”), which cover legends, history, and the themed installations.
• Combine your visit with a stop in the local café or bar for “migas alpujarreñas” or a hearty mountain lunch (see the “Where to eat” section below).
• If you’re visiting in August, the annual Feria del Embrujo (usually around 11 August) is the peak of the witch-theme festivities and draws thousands.

Where To Eat in Soportújar

After filling your camera roll and your sense of wonder, settle down for lunch at a local spot — look for a village tavern or “taberna” offering Alpujarran classics: migas, the “plato alpujarreño” with mountain sausage, jamón, eggs, and potatoes, or a fresh mountain salad with goat cheese. A good choice is a terrace with views over the valley. Pair the meal with a local wine or a craft beer. Afterward, a stroll past the fountain of two witches adds a final touch of whimsy before you head on.

Pampaneira: Postcard-Perfect Alpujarras

Just a short drive from Soportújar, Pampaneira is one of the most iconic villages in the Alpujarras. Its steeply stepped, narrow streets, flower-filled balconies, and artisan shops frame the mountain backdrop beautifully.
Here you’ll find traditional crafts — hand-woven rugs (jarapas), ceramics, locally made chocolates, and cheeses, all lined up in the shops. The fountain of San Antonio is a tiny landmark where legend says a drink from its water might help you find love.
Take the time to wander slowly, sip café con leche in a plaza, and let the quiet mountain rhythm sink in.  You can also continue on to more villages like Bubión and Capileira.

Órgiva: Gateway to the Alpujarras

On the way in or out of your Soportújar loop, you’ll pass through Órgiva, the largest settlement in the Alpujarras valley and a multicultural hub. With a lively weekly market (Thursdays) offering produce, crafts, and more, it’s a good place to break your journey. Stop at Plaza Alpujarra for a coffee, soak in the bohemian atmosphere (some artists and expats have settled here), and browse some of the shops. If you have time, an optional detour to the nearby village of Cáñar offers olive-grove views and a quieter pace.

Lanjarón: Spa Town & Mineral Water Capital

Finish your day with a stop in Lanjarón, known across Spain for its bottled mineral water and historic spa tradition. The town’s origins date from Moorish times, and you’ll find a castle ruin overlooking the town and pretty fountains with inscriptions about water.
Take a stroll down Calle Hondillo, one of the prettiest streets in the region. If you’re up for it, visit the Balneario de Lanjarón for a relaxing thermal bath (a nice contrast to the more playful Soportújar). Don’t forget to sample a fig-cake (tarta de higos) or local honey from one of the shops near the main square.
>From Lanjarón, you can retrace your drive back to the coast via the A-348 and A-4050, arriving back in Almuñécar as the sun begins to dip.

Why This Day Trip Works

• Dramatic contrast: From Mediterranean beach to rugged mountain village in under 90 minutes.
• Visual diversity: White villages, mountain panoramas, and unique photo spots (especially in Soportújar).
• Cultural richness: Moorish roots, artisan crafts in Pampaneira, multi-cultural vibe in Órgiva, spa/hydro heritage in Lanjarón.
• Accessible: You’re based in Almuñécar, so the journey is comfortable as a day trip rather than a full overnight.
• Memorable storytelling: With Soportújar’s unusual theme, you have a strong narrative center for your blog post and photo story.

Final Note

If you’re looking for that “wow” moment of the day, let it be exploring Soportújar.  At that moment, as you wander down a narrow cobbled lane in and spot a giant spider sculpture looming above. Take a selfie by the witch’s broom.  Turn a corner and peer up at the house standing on chicken legs. It’s a whimsical, slightly eerie, fun, and thoroughly Instagram-worthy place to visit.  Yet it is also a genuine small mountain village full of life.

Escape the coast for a day, breathe the mountain air, explore craft shops, sample hearty Alpujarran food — and explore Granada’s Alpujarras.

Getting to Las Alpujarras from the Costa Tropical

Leaving Almuñécar, take the A7 and then the A44 towards Granada.  Next, pick up the A-346 in Vélez de Benaudalla and head towards Órgiva. Pass through the valley and turn on the A348.  Enjoy the scenic drive through Órgiva and back up on the other side of the valley: olive and citrus groves give way to pine and chestnut as you climb. From Almuñécar to Soportújar takes about 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes depending on stops and road conditions. I prefer to make a loop and enter via the Vélez de Benaudalla exit through Órgiva, Soportújar, and then Pamaneira.  Then return home via Lanjarón and take the A44 back to the coast.